That allows you to verify that the speed is accurate between the first and last sensor. That was calibrated by them and known to be about as accurate as you can get in a lower priced chrono. The pro chrono is a quick cut and go, but if I want accuracy and precision (they are not the same), I use the ohler. If you have access to people with chronos compare really exact same loads with each.įactory ammo, I have found, can vary widely off the numbers depending on maker. Unless you have access to ballistics manufacturers grade equipment, it’s tough. If the second chrono reads a couple of fps slower than the front for 10 rounds, you can trust the numbers you are getting. ![]() One way you can tell if your chrono is in the ball park is to put two of them back to back. Fortunately, both of my chronos agree with the two chronos used at matches. I shoot competitive pistol and I have to make a certain Power Factor to make major. So if my reloads matched the factory reading with a good ES, I was happy.įor pistol and rifle you need more precision. It didn't matter to me that the velocity reading was higher than what the box said. I used STS factory shells to get a base point. That's because of the jetting effect choke constriction imposes. Unless you are using a Cylinder choke, your readings will be higher than actual. If you are chronoing to see how consistent your reloads are, just put your most open choke in a shoot 10 rounds through. The replacement was much closer to reality. ![]() It was amusing seeing how quickly those who were watching me backed up. ![]() The first time I used it with shot shells, I got readings of 2000fps. My first Pro Digital chrono passed factory speed tests, but was waaay off.
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